![]() ![]() Little tufts of fur, like too much chest hair, emerged from the placket of polos, which also had hairy protrusions jutting from the sleeve heads. ![]() The duo experimented with other ways to decorate shirts. Meanwhile, they blurred and disguised the gaudy floral decorations of Hawaiian shirts by adding epaulets, panels of swishing, printed fringe, or three-dimensional origami blooms. Prada and Simons even confronted one of menswear’s most unfortunate garments - the Hawaiian shirt - and bent it to their will, dispensing with the boxy, camp-shirt shape they helped popularize in recent years to focus on softer, Beuys-esque forms. Here was something arrestingly new that is bound to influence the shape of menswear in the future - the wideness of the shoulders and the narrowness of the waist heightened by the extra-wide, extra-long sleeves with button cuffs.īlue shirt collars were added to handsome and roomy Macintosh-style raincoats, while other details from the shirt turned up in technical outerwear, and new takes on the reporter jacket. Giger, whose “biomechanical” art style spawned the original “Alien” in the Ridley Scott film franchise.īut the shirt was their big idea and starting point, which they morphed with 1940s men’s tailoring to create strong-shouldered cotton poplin jacket hybrids that can be tucked into high-waist pants or jutting shorts for a radical, pinched-waist silhouette. “Fluid Form” was the title they gave to the collection, which further propelled the trend of lightweight garments this Milan season, while also introducing a host of new silhouettes and ideas.īackstage the famously cerebral design duo dropped the names of several artists they appreciate - Matthew Barney for his body-based performance works and surgical color palette Joseph Beuys for his arresting sculptural forms, and H.R. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons delivered fashion fireworks galore with their spring 2024 men’s show for Prada, conceived as a freewheeling exploration of the shirt - which some audience members viewed through curtains of slime flanking parts of the runway. ![]()
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